Profile: Jacob Moss
Keeping cool – fans have replaced fashion for this fashionista
Former fashion student Jacob Moss is
the curator at the Fan Museum in Greenwich, which celebrates its 25th
anniversary this year with an exhibition called Treasures of the Fan
Museum, 16 January-5 June.
What’s in the exhibition?
Our prize treasure is a French fan in blonde tortoiseshell with a fine lace leaf. There is an enamelled medallion on the guard stick with silver work and diamonds bearing the hallmark of one of the master craftsmen from the House of Fabergé.
What are the challenges of fan curation?
Provenance is often poor because fans go through many auction houses. They were seen as functional commodities and not in the same category as fine art or paintings, so there are huge gaps in their records.
Conservation is also a big issue because one fan can be made of so many materials; we keep them in drawers lined with Lebanese cedar to help keep the bugs at bay.
What can fans tell us about history?
There’s a misconception that they are all decorated with cherubs and sprays of roses, and they were unjustly called “ladies’ trifles” for a long time.
But in the 18th century, they would feature hot topics such as the trial of Warren Hastings [the first governor-general of India, who was tried for corruption and acquitted]. There was a lot of satirical work and some explained how to play games.
You have a background in fashion – what eye-catching garments have you made?
As a young boy, my mind was set on becoming the Christian Dior of my generation. I didn’t swerve from that until I started a degree in women's wear at Central St Martins when it became clear that I was no seamstress.
I sewed panels and trouser legs together incorrectly, while all around me other students were producing perfect little dresses. It was a shame because I loved fashion, but it nearly killed me. I went back to it in my 30s with an MA in fashion curation.
I had always visited museums and galleries and felt at home in them but I hadn’t made the connection until a tutor at the open day said: “Jacob, you are definitely a fashion curation man.” I didn’t need any more prompting.
It’s called the Fan Museum – do people know what to expect?
There’s a massive painting of a fan outside, which you might think explains things, but people still come in hoping to see something else. Some think it’s got something to do with football. I have to say, “sorry gentlemen, it’s quite the opposite”.
It’s surprising how many of them still enjoy their visit.
What’s in the exhibition?
Our prize treasure is a French fan in blonde tortoiseshell with a fine lace leaf. There is an enamelled medallion on the guard stick with silver work and diamonds bearing the hallmark of one of the master craftsmen from the House of Fabergé.
What are the challenges of fan curation?
Provenance is often poor because fans go through many auction houses. They were seen as functional commodities and not in the same category as fine art or paintings, so there are huge gaps in their records.
Conservation is also a big issue because one fan can be made of so many materials; we keep them in drawers lined with Lebanese cedar to help keep the bugs at bay.
What can fans tell us about history?
There’s a misconception that they are all decorated with cherubs and sprays of roses, and they were unjustly called “ladies’ trifles” for a long time.
But in the 18th century, they would feature hot topics such as the trial of Warren Hastings [the first governor-general of India, who was tried for corruption and acquitted]. There was a lot of satirical work and some explained how to play games.
You have a background in fashion – what eye-catching garments have you made?
As a young boy, my mind was set on becoming the Christian Dior of my generation. I didn’t swerve from that until I started a degree in women's wear at Central St Martins when it became clear that I was no seamstress.
I sewed panels and trouser legs together incorrectly, while all around me other students were producing perfect little dresses. It was a shame because I loved fashion, but it nearly killed me. I went back to it in my 30s with an MA in fashion curation.
I had always visited museums and galleries and felt at home in them but I hadn’t made the connection until a tutor at the open day said: “Jacob, you are definitely a fashion curation man.” I didn’t need any more prompting.
It’s called the Fan Museum – do people know what to expect?
There’s a massive painting of a fan outside, which you might think explains things, but people still come in hoping to see something else. Some think it’s got something to do with football. I have to say, “sorry gentlemen, it’s quite the opposite”.
It’s surprising how many of them still enjoy their visit.